Life After College: Let Down in Versailles

Château de Versailles is perhaps the most famous château known to in world. It was once home to the French royal court and was the center of politics prior to the French Revolution. The palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was originally built in the 1500s but was continuously added upon by subsequent monarchs; creating the palace as we know it today. It is one of the most popular tourist sites in France and is known for its extensive estates and grandeur. Before visiting France myself I had heard many people raving about how gorgeous the palace was: how spectacular the grounds were, how beautiful, I had to visit it, so on and so forth... With this in mind we all traveled to Versailles with high expectations, thinking we would be won over by its proclaimed beauty. Now I love history, I've studied history, and I wanted to love Versailles. But speaking on behalf of myself, I was sadly underwhelmed by the majority of the palace and estate.

Just look at all those people in line!

It was a beautiful July morning when we took the train to Versailles. It was perfect weather and it seemed everyone else in France thought so too! The palace had not even been open for an hour but the wait was already ENORMOUS, forcing us to wait over an hour in lines that snaked around the grand entrance. The exterior of the palace was beautiful and indeed grand, but with the abundance of tourists pushing and yelling with their cameras flashing a mile a minute, I was not blown away by Versailles yet.

What's this? A ray of hope in the gardens?

Queen's Chamber, held the camera over my
head to get a shot people-free!

As we finally entered the palace I was still hoping for the best; that I would find something within that would amaze me. I instead found that even though the rooms were gorgeous and detailed, showing the grandeur of the old monarchy of France, it was impossible to see anything in person. It was so crowded the only way you could see a room was when you stood on the tips of your toes with your camera held high and looked at your photograph later. Not to mention if you were lucky enough to get even one clear shot as you were literally pushed room to room by throngs of tourists who just rushed through without taking in the room or wanting to understand its significance. In college I studied art history and history and this should have been a dream come true. Instead I found I could barely get a passing glance of any room, let alone take it in and learn more about it.

I'm not one to live through my camera when visiting a place of interest, but at Versailles there was little opportunity to view anything in person without holding my camera high above and hoping I got a good shot to reflect back on later. In fact the only time I got to take in anything inside the palace was when I had to fight through crowds searching for one of our friends who got swallowed up in the sea of tourists. It's a shame, because it really is gorgeous. It would just be nice to actually get the chance to look at anything...

Hall of Mirrors

The best part of the main gardens, my cat friend 'Marie'

When we finally exited the main palace to the gardens we were all rather perturbed that it would cost an extra €6.5 due to the "Musical Fountain Show" that takes place during the late spring through early autumn. I don't quite think it was worth extra as we were all equally unimpressed with the 'show' (the fountains are turned on while music plays...all for an extra €6.5.) Walking through the main gardens I admit they were pretty, yet the green hedges lacked for me the color and the beauty I craved. We visited the Grand Trianon and its well-groomed gardens with carefully placed flowers was an improvement...but I was holding out for what lay beyond the Petit Trianon. The Hamlet of Marie Antoinette, the part of Versailles that I had wanted to see the most all along and the portion of Versailles that I hoped would be its redeeming gem. Luckily, for the first time that day, my expectations were not only met but exceeded by this often forgotten area of Versailles.

Gardens at the Grand Trianon, getting closer...

Well worth the extra 20 minute walk, and extra €6.5!

The Hamlet is part of the Petit Trianon estate and was built in the late 1700s, designed by Marie Antoinette as a place for her to have privacy and escape from court life at Versailles. It was her 'countryside' retreat while trapped in the middle of the highly regulated court. Marie Antoinette was said to visit the Hamlet dressed as a shepherdess and pretend to live there as a 'peasant.' Many people at the time found it a mockery of their poverty and more proof of the frivolity of the monarchy. The Hamlet was a real working farm and since it was renovated in the 1990s and opened to the public in 2006, there are animals living in the Hamlet now as well.

When I visited in July the rest of Versailles was packed, like sardines. However, the Hamlet was absolutely empty. Apparently all the others visiting that day hadn't received the memo, or didn't want to take the extra twenty minute walk. Their loss was my gain! Walking into the Hamlet was like walking straight into a fairy-tale world; quaint little cottages, gardens, and animals. It was love at first sight and instantly became my favorite part of Versailles, and one of my favorite parts of the whole week in France. If you've never been to Versailles, or have been and missed this gorgeous area, then I highly recommended taking that extra walk. I promise you that you will not regret it! And if you're still not sure, Memoirs of a Young Adventuress has a great post on her thoughts of Versailles as well. We have similar feelings about our visit to Versailles and she also has some great tips for visiting. It will be a day trip you will not forget!